Someone asked me recently for recommendations for an upcoming trip to Santa Barbara. I am always hesitant to put out recommendations, not only because I believe choices are so dependent on personal interests, budget and palate, but because, like Paris about which I have been asked as well, I don’t consider myself to be anywhere close to an expert. I am merely a product of my own whims, wanderings, predilections and obsessions, and happily so. But, I could I thought at least, put together a list of what I myself adore about this little spot of heaven that lies but a hundred miles up the coast from LA. And, others can take it from there.
Travel objectives for me personally have taken on a main theme. I did not travel much when I was younger more than in and around my primary environs. My ambitions nowadays are much in the category of making up for lost time. I have very specific preferences, which I find myself defending to my kids, mostly one, who seems to think he should enlighten me on what I am interested in…….. Needless to say, I am sticking to my own agenda. I am motivated to see and am deeply moved by places of extreme physical beauty, their gardens, architecture, art, music, and ability to walk the streets therein, drinking in, in hedonistic glee, all that each venue has to offer – hence my list of particular great cities, mostly in Europe, and of course the food offerings of each, and especially in the pastry department. Where there is substantive learning to be had which fills in the voids of my youthful tomfoolery, I am even more enchanted. I claim as my own the goal of visiting all the greatest flower gardens in the world. I am also mostly motivated in my life by tepid weather but I have spent many happy weeks in cold and frigid London and Paris in the dark and short days. That will give you a basic understanding of my whims and purpose. I have a relatively specific choice of venues on my remaining bucket list but I also have a deep desire to live in the places I love best, namely Paris. But, I digress a bit.
Santa Barbara has a long and storied past of attracting people of fame and fortune, with far too much fodder to get into here. However, people of simple means and more ethereal ambitions are often attracted here as well. Just yesterday, for example, the lady who helped me in Williams-Sonoma told me that God had told her to move here from Alabama instead of to Irvine, where her family resides. I guess God made the wiser choice for her.
I can’t remember the first time I came here but it is somewhere around 10 years ago. This must be about right because I distinctly recall after reading in The Summertime Anytime Cookbook, of Shutters fame – which came out in 2008, that Santa Monica has 350 days of sunshine a year. Immediately, I felt like this must be the place for me as a perennially sun/vitaminD-deprived soul. Pretty much after that first visit I found myself seriously wondering whatever possessed me to live the entirety of my life in NJ. And, the question burned in my mind around why everyone doesn’t live in California. But, more on this later.
We drove up the coast from Rancho Santa Fe. Having always been curious about the draw here, I found myself wanting to see the spots where east coast-home grown-ers and “extra-fussies” such as Barbra Streisand have chosen to live. How does one go from Brooklyn to Malibu? Hmmmm……..
Heading out from Rancho Santa Fe and trundling up the PCH is always a fine endeavor. There is no doubt that feasting your eyes upon the sparkling Pacific creates an immediate ah-haaahhhhh. Yes, I’d lived on the water before for many Summers on the coast of Cape Cod, but these vast deep blue reveals of the Pacific were indeed something to see.
Many people I know believe there is some kind of fundamental distinction between east coasters and west coasters. I don’t know for sure yet because, even after all the times I’ve been here (this is my second long-term 5+month stay and many shorter vacays), I still don’t really consider myself a true west coaster. All I can say is that if you love the ocean, if you are drawn to the glories of natural life for 12 months of the year, are affected by color, the stars, sunrises and sunsets, and, as for me, have indelible memories from your childhood in the 60s of VW buses and bugs, which stay with you happily, you will like it here. The pace is slower than the surrounds of New York, the the weather is indelibly cosmic and having this quality of nature all around you on a daily basis is a bolster to one’s psyche. Not to mention that you don’t have to wear a coat, boots, hats and gloves – although some people do when it is in the 60s – maybe it’s just for the change of it all?
Here are some of my personal recommendations to ponder:
- walk along the beach at Butterfly and up along Channel Drive. Here we have met Jose, one of the gardeners on the estate of Ty Warner. Jose is a kind and softly spoken man who labors every day in the beds that border the ocean along this vast expanse. He has been gifted a small parcel of his own here, named by signage as Jardin de Jose. There is always a cheery welcome from him and we always exchange pleasantries.
- If you are looking for specific attractions, we have been to the Opera, Lotusland, the Botanical Garden, the Rose Garden at the Santa Barbara Mission, the Santa Barbara Zoo and the Museum of Natural History – all I highly recommend.
- Farmer’s Markets – if you love Farmer’s Markets, this place is for you. There is a bustling Farmer’s Market in Santa Barbara 6 out of 7 days a week. I never tire of going to them because, not only do I relish the congenial tones and inviting vibes that emanate from the vendors’ direct relationship with their patrons, but I love the energy here, particularly at the Saturday market where friends and acquaintances seem so pleased to meet up, chat and catch up. Of course, I am beyond awestruck over the vastness and quality of the fruits of California’s farming culture. I can not get enough of the extraordinary offerings available here. I even scored some Yuzus at Christmas week which, among other things went into a cheesecake. Each week I see chefs combing the markets with their wagons to fill up their kitchens. I can’t think of anything really that you can’t get there in season from a vast selection of herbs, greens of all manner and sort, berries, honeys, meats, fish, nuts, dates, and an extraordinary array of citrus – available in full right now. There are vast arrays also of fruits and vegetables, many that we don’t see as much on the east coast, and I have taken to inhaling all the knowledge that I can about these. I have not as yet been here at the height of peach season and I plan to be soon. There were some plums here as late as November and I happily stocked up.
- Lodging is a very personal choice. We have stayed in hotels and rented houses. I have stayed at the Biltmore, San Ysidro Ranch and the Belmond El Encanto. All are great choices in their own way. I tend to like the Biltmore the best because of its proximity to the Beach – we always have gotten our coffee and stepped outside in the early morning to watch the sun rise here. For me it is one of the features of this prime location. We have rented two homes here and have done so through private accommodations sources. I personally can’t speak for Air BNB and others of this type but it’s worth a look.
- Dining – is such a personal choice thing – and for all the years I wrote my blog I rarely made any recommendations for dining. I like to basically eat simple but really good food. And, living so close to New York I find making comparisons difficult. Let’s just say this. Food is expensive here – both in restaurants and in the grocery stores where taxes on food take some getting used to. But, here, for whatever it is worth is a list of my places to eat. For steak and traditional fare: Lucky’s Montecito. For casual lunch or dinner sitting on the water: The Boathouse at Hendry’s Beach. There is a Bouchon downtown which is nice. For French, I like Petit Valentien on State St. I was in love with the Hangover (rice noodles with chicken and veg – spicy) from Khao Kaeng in Montecito but they recently closed – they have a location downtown but I haven’t been there yet. The restaurants at San Ysidro Ranch are sparkling and romantic. Sakana is good for sushi. Best tarragon chicken salad sandwich or on salad: Field and Fork, Summerland. Burgers, salads and fun: Honor Bar (a Hillstone Restaurant) Downtown I like The Lark and Blackbird. Fish Tacos: East Beach Tacos. Italian: Tres Lune, Olio et Limone, Toma and for very casual, Gianfranco’s in Carpinteria and Trattoria Vittorio. Breakfast: downtown Jeaninne’s – the Benedicts are great. Last but not least: Bakeries: Deux, Bree’osh, Renaud’s – all locations, Lilac Patisserie. These are all very high quality bakeries – something that surprises me considering the rarity in NJ. The vienoiserie is top notch.
- See nature: I am obsessed with the magic that is hummingbirds and butterflies and this is a great place to indulge – and you will find them just about anywhere. Last year we had a Super Bloom going into March which was terrific. Unlike at home, everyone gets all excited when it rains here. It is the topic of conversation in the grocery store aisle. I find I have to bite my tongue but I get how much they need the rain, so I’m happy for them.
- Side trips: Santa Ynez, Solvang, Ojai, Hearst Castle, Los Olivos, San Luis Obispo – explore Santa Barbara’s burgeoning and well-regarded wine country where you can arrange visits, do tastings, and just enjoy the lifestyle and meticulous dedication to viticulture that is so much about California. There are many resources for wine destinations and I hesitate to pick just one because I haven’t done any formal tours. Forbes.com has a nice list from 2017 found here: https://www.forbestravelguide.com/destinations/santa-barbara-california/travel-guide.
- Shopping: again, shopping is a very personal thing – I recommend a nice walk in both the upper and lower village of Montecito where you will find great browsing territory – clothes, art, books, local interest items. Downtown you will find State Street, from the Funk Zone adjacent to the water all the way up to La Cumbre Plaze where our only Williams-Sonoma resides. A new Bristol Farms is supposed to be underway(?). I love Lewis and Clark on State St. and the Summerland Antique Cooperative for browsing around. Many great findings and bargains can be found. Eye of the Day in Carpinteria is a great venue to view pots bigger than me (urns) and small from all over the world – and they ship home. If you are a gardener, don’t miss it. The remnants of the local flower trade still reside in Carpinteria and they are worth seeking out, particularly for orchids. Most have been taken over now by marijuana growers which is very sad – well, maybe not for everyone. I made an attempt to visit Rose Story Farm in November which looked amazing but sadly, they have closed to the public since the debris flow. I plan to try to visit Grace Rose Farm in Santa Ynez very soon.
- Take a drive up to UCSB where you will get to wondering how students ever drag themselves away from the views to attend classes or do any studying. An impressive campus.
Well, that’s just a short and sweet and much truncated capsule of what to think about when visiting here.
The Saturday Market at E. Cota St.
Oh, and there is the celebrity siting too if that is your thing – I have seen Ellen and Portia, Kevin Costner, Meg Ryan 3 times just in the last few weeks, Patrick J. Adams from Suits in Lucky’s and Billy Baldwin many times. I have not seen Oprah or Rob Lowe. I have to say there is really no question of what draws people here. The overwhelming beauty is extraordinary and inspiring.
I can not say for sure that I am unhappy to return to my own house and garden in NJ when this snippet of life is over. I yearn for the days of digging and planting in my own dirt. Knowing this place is here to visit and to maybe one day live permanently is reassuring. But, a few gloomy days in NJ send me dreaming of racing up the 101 with the windows down in the cool, bright days of this kind of Winter, with Joan Baez or Simon and Garfunkel blasting on the radio. In short, this is the land of abundant sunshine, with little humidity and surrounded by breezes, bees, flowers and incomparable vistas. Your soul will fill up – and that’s a good thing.